![]() If it gets to where it's just not gonna go, no way, no how. Go back to the removing of the locking screw as you normally would. You're using the driver like a nail set to drive that screw home. Now, hold the drill by the chuck, over the work bench, but above it, so you're ONLY supporting the drill with your hand, and only by the chuck, Then, a couple of good sharp hammer thwacks on top of the driver. Second step, take your torx socket that you're using to remove the locking screw, put it in the screw, and close the existing chuck until it's supporting but NOT CLAMPING the socket. This ensures it's not "locked" against the locking screw. NOT the big ugga dugga.įirst step for a reversable drill with the locking screw inside, put the allen key in the in the dill chuck and TIGHTEN it with a good hammer thwack, or a couple of burps on the impact gun. That is a quick speedy, not huge torque impact gun. I've evolved that into using a 3/8 impact gun, clamping a 3/8 square drive allen key in the chuck. The "original" way since threaded chucks were a thing, is clamping a3/8 allen key in the chuck, and beating the (tar) out of it with a hammer to get it to turn (Seriously, I wasn't joking, it takes 4000 Youtube videos to build up that kind of confidence). It's not really every day, but I've worn out my share of drill chucks. Oil won't get under it until AFTER you find a way to loosen it. The inside screw, clean metal to clean metal, has formed a seal. About 4000 Youtube videos might build your confidence a bit.ĭon't go spraying oil. Indeed, the "inside" screw is going to be a left hand thread, and the chuck it's self is going to be a right hand thread. I planned on making a tool post mounted drill with it for radial drilling on the lathe but that will probably never happen.įrom the factory those things are set up right tight, and for obvious reason. I still have my old Dewalt nicad, I bought an adapter for it to use MW M18 batteries but I still don't use it. If you decide to get a new one, who knows maybe in the future you may come across a good chuck or use that drill for parts or a project. I hate to to get rid of working tools/stuff in this throw away world we live in now but if it's more cost effective then I'll go with it. If it does then I hate to say it but a new one is probably the better option especially if that drill is kind of old. A Rohm was $50 pre-pandemic so I assume it may cost more now. Yup, holidays are coming up, good sales around Thanksgiving as you know. Might not get good good heat transfer but might be able to heat it up just enough. if you have something like 40W or higher, a 15W iron for PCB work might not be hot enough. You could try reaching in there with a soldering iron to try heating it up. They're usually 1/2"-20 but some newer drills are 9/16" now, my MW was 9/16" also.Ĭlick to expand.Yeah those screws are on/can get pretty tight. Oh BTW, check the spindle thread before ordering the chuck. ![]() Was a great upgrade & hasn't gave me a problem yet but if I had to do it over I would just get a Rohm. I cheaped out & just went with a new MW chuck (no idea who makes it). The MW I have was known to have chuck problems & unfortunately mine did also. Doesn't mean a Jacobs won't be decent though. But ever since Jacobs manufacturing was moved overseas I no longer recommend their stuff anymore. My old Dewalt XRP nicad came with a Jacobs on it, never had a problem with it unlike my Milwaukee. There was another brand that was a bit cheaper than Rohm that had a red band on the sleeve, I forget the brand but now there are lots of generic no name brands selling chucks that look similar. If not there are cheaper options like non-ratcheting lock. Might as well get the ratcheting lock type if you plan to keep/use the drill for a while. Rohm is one of the better choices if you want a good quality & reliable replacement chuck. You can put blue thread lock on the center screw when reassembling but don't put thread lock on the chuck/spindle threads. The chuck itself threaded on the spindle is normal RH. They sell replacement screws that are easy to find on ebay or amazon. Yes, the center retaining screw is usually LH thread.
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